Posts Tagged ‘Allan Wilson Memorial’

Hi all

The last time I left you we were just out of Lupane having visited the Allan Wilson Memorial.  And we were heading North.

Back to Hwange National Park’s Main Camp!    We were to meet up with two other travellers – delightful ladies – CvC and CH.

We had a delightful dinner – thanks GJW – and slept like logs.   Getting up early the next day we all went out to “track down” that special bird from my previous visit to Hwange in July.

Yellow Morph Crimson-breasted Shrike

Rare Yellow Morph Crimson-breasted Shrike

And find them we did !!

The two girls are mad keen photographers and had a wonderful time.

After breakfast we packed up and departed but now GJW had a seat in CvC’s Toyota Prado.  Northwards again !  But not very far, to what is locally known as Crossroads, which is the Dete/Kamativi turn off.  Re-fuelled there and turned right going north-east towards Kamativi.

Kamativi Tin Mine Road

North Eastward

Before reaching Kamativi we turned right again and now had some distance to cover on the road to Binga.

Once out of the escarpment and into inhabited Communal Land we came across some signs of commercial activity.

Traditional axe

For sale……

Yes I did buy one.  Seven dollars.  Good value if I don’t break it !

About 20km before Binga one comes to what is called the Siabuwa Fly Gate, a reference to the control of the Tsetse fly (Genus Glossina).  As an aside Zimbabwe has eight recorded cases of Trypanosomyasis this year !! Scary.  The gate appears to be defunct now because I saw no sign of it.  Anyway we turned right and set of going directly East.  The road conditions changed somewhat too.

Gravel Road

Somewhat worse !

This prevailed for the best part of two hours before we turned onto a very much worse road and slowly made our way south.  We could soon see that we had a bit of a challenge in front of us……………

Chizarira Hills

Mind the Gap

Yes – we had to get over that !

Which we accomplished without mishap.  There was lot’s of forest in those valleys which I am sure will hold plenty of Narina Trogon‘s. (Compulsory birding reference.)

We rounded a corner and saw we had arrived at our destination !

Chizarira National Park

Arrived………..

This was a huge “Tick” for me as I had never been here before.  Close but not actually.  Many years ago I once walked the Sengwa River Gorge which forms this park’s eastern boundary.  We were looking for Taita Falcon and yes we did find them.

This post is long enough without actually taking you into the Park so I will leave you here to await the next installment.

Thanks for reading.

Cheers

Tony

Hi All

I’m back…………

Let’s continue on our journey.

We left off last time with a fantastic breakfast of the Nesbitt Castle and me telling you that AJS is not a birder but he is passionate about the history of Rhodesia/Zimbabwe – a passion he has had since a boy.  We filled up with fuel and headed south, past Chipangali Wildlife Orphanage, (whose founder Viv Wilson sadly died this week) through Esigodini and Gwanda.  About six kilometres later we turned right and our direction now became south-west.  After about eighty kilometres the tarred surface abruptly ended and an hour later we passed through the metropolis of Hwali !

Baobab Adansonia digitata

Baobab
Adansonia digitata

We were now in the deep south-west of Zimbabwe and Baobab country. The nests are those of the Red-billed Buffalo Weaver.

Cactus

Strange Cactus

It is very dry down there and there were plenty of these spiny beasts.  Anyone out there know what they are ?  I don’t !

After Hwali the road deteriorated quite quickly but we only had about 40 odd km left to go before we would arrive at our destination.

Shashi Wilderness Camp - Tuli Circle

Shashi Wilderness Camp

Shashi Wilderness Camp Tuli Circle

Lovely place

The Shashi Wilderness Camp is owned and operated by the Matabeleland Branch of Wildlife Environment Zimbabwe.  It is a fantastically restful and peaceful camp right in the riverine forests of the Shashi River adjacent to the Tuli Circle.  This strange border phenomenon is a semi-circle of land that belongs to Zimbabwe but is on the Botswana side of the river that demarcates the border.

http://www.madbookings.com/botswana/information/tuli-botswana.html I stole their map but can’t vouch for them as a business

 

Something to do with the old Fort Tuli where the BSAC Pioneers entered into Matabeleland late in the 19th century.

 

Shashi Widerness Camp

Lovely just sitting ……..

Yes – that is AJS.

Tuli Circle Shashi River

The Shashi River

…. and looking at the view.

The next morning we embarked on the real purpose for coming to this remote place.

National Parks Tuli Circle Safari Area

The Nat Parks sign

The Tuli Circle is managed by Zimbabwe National Parks as a safari area.

Pioneer Cemetery sign

Our destination revealed……………..

There is no real need for me to comment on the next four pictures.

Ernest Kays Prentice Fort Tuli

Ernest Kays Prentice

Captain Leslie Dewing Blackburn Fort Tuli
Captain Leslie Dewing Blackburn

George Hubert Hepper Headstone Fort Tuli

George Hubert Hepper that’s 1891

Patrick Brown Russel Headstone Fort Tuli

Patrick Brown Russell

We drove off to see an old Baobab and on the way back we climbed a small hillock.  Apart from the haze the view was great.

Tuli Circle Shashi Safari Area Giraffe

Can you see the distant giraffe?

That afternoon we went for a long walk up river from camp.  Brilliant riverine forest with fantastically sized trees.  We enjoyed that tremendously.  When I got up that morning at the respectable hour of 07h30 it was VERY chilly.

Cold Temperature Thermometer

It was very cold……..

But when we set out on our walk things had improved considerably……

Warm Temperature Thermometer

But warmed up nicely…………..

Riverine Forest Tuli Circle Shashi River

Big trees indeed !

After another chilly night in our little dormitory we packed up and returned to Bulawayo.  We were there by about lunch time and went straight to our ‘hotel’.

The Bulawayo Club

The Bulawayo Club !

The Bulawayo Club
The Bulawayo Club

The Bulawayo Club is one of those venerable old institutions known as a Gentleman’s  Club but in this day and age is much more tolerant of the fair sex.   It is lovely building and so reminiscent of its time.

The Bulawayo Club

The Bulawayo Club entrance Hall

The Bulawayo Club

Bedroom wing

The Bulawayo Club

The stairs and landing

The Bulawayo Club Atrium

The Atrium

The Bulawayo Club Dining Room Amalinda Group

The dining room

The Bulawayo Club Chief Lobengula
The Lobengula Room

We spent two nights at The Club because we needed to go shopping for supplies.  Beer, coffee, lots of travel snacks, meat etc.  The marathon journey was far from over.

We left Bulawayo with an extra body on board…………..

Greg on the Mazda Bongo

Not too uncomfortable………

We picked up GJW and headed north.  A long way north to Lupane where we took a right turn onto a dirt road then two lefts and now had 46 kilometres go and the road was pretty bad.  It took an hour…..

Shangani River

….to reach the Shangani River

And we still had a way to  go.  Eventually I saw it and we swung off the road for probably less than 100 metres and stopped.

AJS got out of the Bongo,  looked around and said “What is it ?”

Allan Wilson Memorial Shangani Patrol

AJS at the Allan Wilson Memorial

Remember the Shangani Patrol?  Where Major Allan Wilson and his men were caught on the wrong side of the Shangani River by Matabele warriors?  And all 34 were killed?  This was the site of the battle on the 4th of December 1893.

AJS was very pleased.

Shangani Patrol Allan Wilson Memorial

GJW at the Allan Wilson Memorial

GJW had not been there before either.  It was my third visit, the first being more than fifty years previously!  The beer drinking began!!

I drove back to Lupane, we filled up with fuel, swung right and continued north.  “North?”  I hear you say.

Yup it was not over yet……………

I will be back soon so we can continue with the journey.

Cheers

Tony